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Comparing different chine hulls

Please comment on a comparison of the Crowther multi chine and similar wider V-hulls such as Crowther amas and Cross 12 m hard chine with approx. 45 degree chine hull. Waterline is below chine so turbulence should not be a factor in fairly smooth seas. I have also heard of monohull aficionados preaching the value of chines.

Without having the actual lines plans in front of me, it's hard to make a direct comparison, but please refer to my article on 'Basic Ways to Use Plywood' for general trends and relative complexities.

As far as chine-built boats in general—yes, I am also somewhat of a fan. IF well designed—and they not all are!—they can certainly perform acceptably well and look good too, as the chine lines (if kept with fairly straight sheer) can really help to make the boat 'look' fast. They also work well for monohull planing forms but add resistance for most multihulls as either the chine drops below the waterline to give the hull enough displacement, or the hulls end up too Vee'd and give an increase in frictional resistance compared to a round bilge boat.

Veed hulls do 'track' very well and may slip less to leeward. The chine can also help to gently break up waves though this may make the boat slightly slower in the process. (Just like a Lapstrake boat can have a very kindly ride in waves—but then be slower. The Lapstrake Folkboats being but one example.)

But today, there are also some interesting round bilge alternatives that are no harder to build than the early chine ply boats (see the various METHODS articles—particularly the Radius Chine, Strip Hulls and KSS. One important aspect of round bilge is the association with professional boatbuilding. IF you build to high quality, a round bilge boat will typically have greater resale value than one with a hard chine—and be faster in most conditions.


Mike Waters NA

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